Since it was recently 3/03 day, which is one of the few "funny number" days that both Americans and Europeans can agree on, I decided to pick up a 303. Not the legendary Roland TB-303 bass synthesizer, the device which single-handedly launched the entire musical genre of Acid Drum and Bass, but instead the Roland MC-303 groove box which launched absolutely nothing of value.
Which is a bit odd, considering that this one box could easily substitute for a TB-303, while also stepping in for much loved drum machines like the TR-808, TR-909, TR-606 and CR-78, while still having room left over for 6 more (admittedly rompler) synth parts.
But its cardinal sin was, I think, that it came with too many preset patterns, which led people who consider themselves serious musicians to dismiss it, putting it in the same category as those home keyboards that play a whole song when you just hold down a single key. Thus it was relegated to the DJ table of tweeners' birthday parties where they could dance to its slightly too repetitive preset beats.
That said, many products that Roland has produced over the years, like the aforementioned bass and drum machines, were initially considered failures until they were unloaded in thrift shops and sold for $100 to a new generation of aspiring musicians who would then go on to produce great, genre-defining works with them. The MC-303 is no different in that regard. Well, at least the part where I picked it up from a thrift shop for $100, I don't think anyone's made any great, genre-defining works with one. (Though the MC-505 that came out later as its replacement did see some success)
Anyway, all that aside this box was only $100 because it doesn't work, so let's crack it open and see what juicy goodness awaits us inside.
Ah yes, juicy goodness. Some obvious signs of spilled liquids on the bottom case there.
And it's on the main panel PCB as well, here's a few extra juicy spots.
And on the top side things are looking kinda sticky.
When I did the initial tests the unit powered on and most functions seemed to work, but the buttons in this corner in particular were largely nonfunctional, including SW27 which is the 'Play' button. Rather important one, that. Checking the resistance showed a reading of hundreds of ohms with the switch pressed, so they obviously need replacement.
So let's get the plastic key caps off and bust out the IPA.
And with a little scrubbing, things are looking dramatically cleaner.
This cleaning didn't bring the switches back to life, of course, and these rubber dome 8x8x5 switches in particular are a bit tricky to find replacements for.
The original switches are made by Panasonic, and Roland was very fond of using their switches for a while in the 90s up until Panasonic stopped manufacturing switches because they were so incredibly bad at it. Other manufacturers still make similar switches, but most of them are semi-anonymous Chinese factories that are hard to pin down the identity of and even harder to order from. Luckily there's still some new-old-stock of the QJJ05Q switches floating around, so I ordered some of those off eBay and we'll see how things go when they arrive.
The other tact switches are thankfully much easier to find, they're just bog standard 6x6x5 clicky switches with the only peculiarity being that they're 2-pin rather than the more common 4-pin variety. I already had a bag of them laying around that I was planning to use for my Roland JP-8000, but I didn't feel bad pilfering them as I can always buy more.
So, nothing to it but to do it.
35 old crusty switches come out...
And 35 shiny new switches go in.
Then everything goes back in the box, which has now been cleaned, for a quick test.
Don't worry about half the display being blank, that's just due to the really slow refresh rate on the LED matrix.
And with the knobs back on and the case buttoned up (and with the picture timed to show the other half of the display lit up)...
All the replaced buttons are working perfectly, and I was able to validate the full functionality of the system.
Quite surprisingly I didn't need to replace or service any of the potentiometers along the top. It's really common for them to get damaged since Roland for some reason didn't see fit to actually bolt them down to the solid metal front panel, so a suitably forceful sideways strike can basically split the potentiometer clean in half. I guess I'll count my blessings on that one.
Anyway, all that's left to do now is wait for the NOS switches to arrive so that the 3-4 dead keyboard keys can be revived and it'll be good as new. There'll be nothing left to fix or improve...
Or will there be? Stay tuned.






































